The Coast — Ephesus & Smyrna
Begin where the road begins. Give the whole morning to Ephesus at Selçuk, a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the Library of Celsus, the terrace houses, the great theatre — then the Basilica of Saint John and, above the town, the House of the Virgin Mary. In the afternoon drive up to Smyrna, modern İzmir, for the Roman agora of the only church that never died.
The North — Pergamon & Thyatira
Climb to the acropolis of Pergamon above Bergama, itself a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the steep theatre, the Temple of Trajan, the foundations of the Altar of Zeus — and the Asclepion below. On the way back, stop in Akhisar for the quiet ruins of Thyatira, the smallest city and the longest letter.
The Inland Valleys — Sardis & Philadelphia
Spend the morning at Sardis near Salihli — the vast bath-gymnasium and the great synagogue of the city that was told it was asleep. Then on to Alaşehir for Philadelphia, where the tall brick pillars of its Byzantine church still stand in the middle of the modern town.
The Lycus Valley — Laodicea & Pamukkale
Finish at Laodicea near Denizli — the marble streets rising again, the old water pipes still crusted white beside the path. Just across the valley lie the white travertine terraces of Pamukkale and ancient Hierapolis, the hot-spring city that sharpens Laodicea’s letter about lukewarm water.
Optional — Patmos, the Island of the Visions
If you have a day and the sea is kind, sail to Patmos, where John was exiled and the Book of Revelation was received. The Cave of the Apocalypse and the great monastery above it make a fitting close to the circuit that the seven letters first travelled.
Compiled by Hasan Gülday, a licensed professional tour guide living in Kuşadası, right beside Ephesus where this route begins. If you would like to walk it with a guide who lives on the road, get in touch — I would be glad to hear from you.